Fashion Week Fall 2011: Derek Lam

Yesterday I was delighted to be back at Lincoln Center for the fall 2011 fashion week shows with my friend Linda Levy, whose husband Peter is in charge of the successful venue at Lincoln Center. Sunday started off with a bang at Derek Lam. Following on the heels of his beautiful pre-fall French inspired show, he proved that he is definitely on a roll. He presented his collection with a quote from George Balanchine “there are no new steps, only new combinations.” And he elaborated on this with the adaptation of new fabrics. Created by combining raw materials in new ways, he has added substance and loft to these fibers. And by layering, he made these lighter materials more appropriate for fall. His incredible tailoring was evident starting off with one of my favorite pieces, this fabulous doubleface wool pea jacket in a gorgeous smoky blue. The welting details and shorter style made it feel fresh and new.

It was followed immediately by this handsome ode to menswear. Love the color combination and beautiful full leg trousers. And to demonstrate the validity of the Balanchine quote, he took the pea jacket silhouette above, and with a few simple changes  (making it single breasted, with patch pockets and a car coat length in a vibrant red) – voila – an entirely new look.

Now witness another fresh combination through color – a third version of the pea coat again in the blue, with these red and black wool stretch flannel trousers – these colors sang on the runway! All the collections I saw had some sort of version of pants with side stripes.

This glamorous look features a dress of newly combined materials under a spectacular laundered cotton gabardine coat with waxed mink sleeves and cashmere felt collar. The waxing is a new treatment making the fur more impervious to weather. Love the boots as well!

This dress of doubleface cashgora was even more elegant on the runway.

Another glamorous coat offering was this ivory shearling. Love how he paired this model and outfit, the white coat sandwiched by the short dark hair above echoing the black velvet and leather sandal below.

We’re now used to Lam presenting his beautifully tailored signature version of American sportswear. The surprise, however, was the fabulous collection of architectonic eveningwear. The combination of new technical fabrics billowing effortlessly down the runway with leather or suede made for a unique collection of understated yet memorable gowns.

This gorgeous number with laundered satin khaki bottom and saffron lambskin top was seriously calling my name.

This grey shadow plaid silk chiffon practically floated. Too bad you can’t see the movement – like a Greek Goddess.

The sheer silk jersey bottom of this gown was a recurring theme at the shows – I expect to see more of this trend later in the week.

all photos Alessandro Viero /

This was a great way to start off fashion week. Derek Lam continues to refine his vision and add to his repertoire. My guess is we may very well see some of these gorgeous gowns on the red carpet in the fall! More tomorrow from the runways!!

39 thoughts on “Fashion Week Fall 2011: Derek Lam

  1. what is that out quote…out with the lion – in with the “Lam” – I just bought a pearl gray coat ….like that. love those ethereal dresses and slim trousers….that pale blue coat is dreamy.

  2. Im love with his collection. The jackets are so pretty but my favourite piece is the grey shadow plaid silk chiffon dress…It looks like a dream! Happy Valentine’s day, my dear. How its amazing!

  3. Oooh, thanks for taking us with you! Especially as this show was obviously more of a heavy hitter than I first thought.

    That light blue and red combo makes me remember those amazing Avedon shot Versace ads from years ago–so fantastic…

  4. paprika and pale blue, what a pretty combination…
    and gorgeous dresses that swirl when you walk…I’m so all about that…
    not sure I’m ready to talk about fall 2011 yet but don’t mind seeing the fashions….

  5. Love the dress that was calling your name! Can’t wait to see more from the runways. By the way, I linked to your post about the Boxwood home today. I did a post on it as well but more about David Netto. Thanks!

  6. I’m thrilled you are reporting from Fashion Week NYC! Wow! What an interesting collection. I just love the shadow plaid silk chiffon dress – so interesting to see this geometric plaid mixed with such an ethereal gown! Pea jacket, darling. ; )

  7. this was the next best thing to sitting there with you and Linda! So sorry to have missed…this collection is amazing. To have created “wearable” fashion on the runway that looks utterly fresh and new is no small feat. Beg, borrow or steal for that daffodil leather and chiffon gown…a walking heart attack!


  8. Hi Q, Enjoy all the beauty this week! Wish I could have made it out this year, but I’ll be following along on instead while my coworker Pamela tweets from Lincoln Center. Jason Wu was my favorite so far!!! Gorgeous. Looking forward to your point of view this week. XO

  9. All the pieces are so beautiful, especially the greek goddess dress…. I’ll be reinstating my exercise regime as of today….

  10. First of all, how very
    WONDERFUL that
    you got to attend a show
    at Fashion Week!! And
    WHAT a show ~ I love
    all of these pieces, especially
    the grey dress. Have a
    lovely Valentines Day!
    xx Suzanne

  11. I can only imagine what it must be like to be sitting there as all these lovely creations go by. The first two images are very much to my liking. I would love either of the coats, so lovely, Happy Vday,KS

  12. I especially like the tailoring of those first coats – classics. I’d wear that red one in a minute!

  13. Loving the pale blue coats…Derek Lam is timeless!
    And so glad to hear that at least one man out there is rocking the pink shirt look, now I need to convince my son! xx Danielle

  14. Happy Valentine’s Day Q! So hard to pick a favorite look – the blue pea coat was a great one to start out with and I can just picture Karlie Kloss floating down the runway in that chiffon dress…love it!! I’ve been busy planning a last-minute spring vacation so it’s nice to check in with FW – can’t wait to see what other shows you’re attending, so lucky! xo KO

  15. What a treat, how nice to see fashion week through your eyes. I love evrything you showed I love . I’m looking forward to more!

  16. Stacy,
    It was so much fun following your tweets this weekend….I felt like I was there!

    This particular collection of Lam is hands down the best I’ve ever seen. Glamourous and wearable. Love it all, but that gray plaid dress is my ideal silhouette…might just have to track it down.

    Looking forward to all your other fashion updates!
    xo Elizabeth

  17. I have always been in awe of Derek Lam and this is a wonderful post. His clothes are always so perfectly tailored and made. And the colours in this collection are wonderful!

  18. You lucky lady! Beyond jealous…but at least you are keeping us all in the loop here! Great collection above, can’t wait to see what else you have in store!

  19. This is such a slice of bliss late at night, I’m so glad I peeked in before turning off the computer. Your posts are just stunning; this one is no exception. I am loving the incredible photos and great descriptions, you have done a stellar job conveying the sense of being there. What beautiful things he has created (again!), those pea coat variations are fabulous.

    Thank you for sharing the beauty!

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